Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Phase 1- complete!


Well, we made it- I am writing from the airport in Las Vegas. Kelsey is about to be on her way back to Boston. This morning we left the Grand Canyon and made our way over to the City of Sin. I'm heartbroken to see her go, but Kels has to get back for her first day of school on Friday! Good luck little friend :)

Our first view of the Grand Canyon, Desert View end of the park
The past week here in the southwest has really been everything we could have hoped for. And as far as grand finales go, the Grand Canyon was pretty spectacular. When we arrived on Sunday in the early evening, we got our first view of the canyon as we drove the 55 miles through the park on the beautiful Rt. 64. We had reserved a campsite at a park in the little southern base-camp town of Tusayan, about a mile from the Grand Canyon central village. Our tent site was beautiful, with lots of space and shade, and our new tent has been very comfy. We found a nice rhythm in our camping life and really had a great time.

View from inside our tent of sunset at our campsite at the GC


Me sleeping like a mummy in the tent... apparently I get colder at night than some people

Monday morning bright and early we made our way up to the park. We decided to walk along the south rim toward Hermit’s Rest, a viewpoint 11 miles to the west of the visitor center. It was a looong walk in the heat of the day, but no problem. We are rock stars. 
View from our South Rim walk



Clouds changing the landscape of the South Rim

However, it seemed like trying to walk all the way back another 11 miles was pushing it, so instead we just grabbed a convenient shuttle back to visitor center. Okay, we took the shuttle directly to the nearest bar. And enjoyed drinks. Yum. Then we came back to our little tent, made dinner (and possibly more drinks), and enjoyed the beautiful desert evening. 
Arizona Sunrise is the world's most perfect recovery drink
More local beer
Campsite necessities- cheap and cheaper rum
Tuesday, we took the morning to ourselves for writing and reading and waiting out the midday sun before we took off for the park, which turned out to be a very good decision (10 points to each of our houses). We chose the South Kaibab trail for our last hike... It goes down into the canyon on a pretty steep grade all the way to the Colorado River, but that is wicked fah, so we just did a 3-hour portion of it. Our timing was absolutely perfect- we left at about 4:30pm, hiked in/down for about an hour and a half in the lowering light, and eventually got a great view over the river. Then we turned around to head back up, just as the sun was getting ready to make it’s departure below the top of the towering canyon walls. For the next 90 minutes, as we struggled to climb up and out, we were treated to an amazing light show. We were, essentially, chasing the sun- it was getting lower but we were getting higher, so we saw it set about 3 times but were able to keep getting above it again. The colors, of the sun on the canyons and the sky, were absolutely unreal. It was a good moment when we finally reached the top. SATISFACTION. 

Descent, in the late afternoon sunshine

View of the Colorado from about 2 miles down into the canyon

Ever-changing light

We hiked down to the base of this pyramid-thingy, and then around the front of it and below it

Sun setting behind the walls on the way back up

Gone

Back again as we got above it :) you can see the path we came from below on the left

And then we made our way sleepily back to our tent for our last night...This morning we woke up and just began to make our way over to Vegas! We both saw the strip for the first time... unremarkable. No photos from Vegas. 

I am certainly sad about having to see my friend off! My last connection to my east-coast life… I’m eternally grateful to have had her with me. She is my transitional queen, and has been nothing but helpful and supportive along the way. I'm very proud of her- of both of us- for the things we’ve accomplished over the past 14 days! We have driven more than 4,000 miles through 11 states. We have been to 7 national parks, and hiked who knows how many miles/vertical feet- enough to make us tired and sore here at the end. Kelsey learned how to drive a stick shift, on the road, and is now practically an expert. I finally read the first Harry Potter book start-to-finish-- and now everyone can get off my back about it, because I liked it and I’ll be picking up the second book ASAP. 

We haven’t spent one single night in a hotel. We’ve made all our own meals, figured out how to make our tent a home, and you know what? It stuck. I’m already attached to this strange version of home, and I’m sincerely going to miss life on the road. For me, it has been very satisfying to be so self-sufficient and… free.

As for what comes next? Well since I realized I enjoy the road so much, I decided to extend the trip a little bit. I was meant to head straight to LA from Vegas, to attend to my to-do list [ 1) establish myself  2) secure employment]. But Gretchen (love of my life) and I made some last minute plans for something much more fun- DMB Caravan at the Gorge. Duh. I'm sure no one is too surprised about that, even if LA is only 250 miles away, and even if Washington is about 1,000 miles in the wrong direction. So between tomorrow night and Friday morning, I’ll be making my way all the way back to the top of the country; through Nevada, picking up Gretch in Boise, Idaho on Thursday night, then cutting through Oregon to good old George, Washington, for a long weekend of music and fun. Then, she’ll take on the role of copilot for the trip back to LA. (As if I was gonna get a job over labor-day weekend, right?)

I’ll keep updating this blog as long as it makes sense for me to do so- definitely next week with some stories from the Gorge, and perhaps with some tales of my first few weeks in my new city.

Thank you all so much for encouraging me to write, and for supporting me in this trip. It was a long-time dream of mine to drive across the country and start over somewhere new, and now that it’s actually happening I feel as though I have to cling to nearly every moment- they really slip by so quickly. So, I’m very glad I committed to keeping this account of our travels, and it’s a bonus that my family got to enjoy reading it. With all this fabulous technology keeping us connected, I don’t feel so very far away from the people I love.

Until next time…
Xo
Cory



Saturday, August 27, 2011

Moab, UT

We are about to spend our third night in Moab, Utah, a town in the middle of the desert, tri-sected by the Green and Colorado Rivers, and home to two of the country's most dramatic national parks. We are staying at a great campground near the junction of rts 191 and 313, putting us about half way between Arches Nat'l Park to the east and Canyonlands Nat'l Park to the west.
  
View from the parking spot at our campsite

 Friday morning we went into town for coffee and breakfast and discovered that Moab is, as we expected, a very fun town that I pretty much love.
3 Fits, all the same! Moab, you feel like home.
A good example of my favorite kind of art/jewelery, and one for sale at our fav coffee shop- I like this town :)
After breakfast we drove out of town and stopped at the trailhead for Corona Arch, a scenic hour-long hike that is located between the two parks, near our campground. It was a beautiful start to the day, and definitely got us excited to go see more of the area. So we went home, packed a picnic lunch, and set back out for Canyonlands, about a 40 minute drive (though, the drives here hardly ever feel long- the speed limit is usually around 55, and you're cruising through one of the most visually interesting landscapes even Dr. Seuss could dream up).

On the way out to Corona Arch, about a mile from where we started

Corona Arch- our first Arch viewing! Unreal.

Corona Arch from a higher viewpoint

We love it!


Next, we did 3 moderately-long hikes in Canyonlands: Mesa Arch (awesome), Upheaval Dome (weird- check out the mysterious story if you're so inclined) and Whale Rock, an easy and beautiful climb from the road (which is already up in the sky) to the top of one of the most massive rocks in the park, giving you a panoramic view of the place. We also went out to the Grand Viewpoint, which is also amazing. Amazing, amazing, amazing.
View from the Grand Viewpoint- the white rock layer is more sturdy than some other layers, and thats why it remains in so many places
View from Whale Rock
Whale Rock, off the other direction

 We left the park around 6 and went back to Moab in search of a local swimming hole, which was promised to us by the writer of some blog about such things. We walked for about 30 minutes out along a trail following creek in the outskirts of town, but never actually found the swimming hole. It was a beautiful hour nonetheless, and at the end I of course jumped into the stream and laid down in the 8-inch deep water, because it is effing HOT here and I was desperate for that swim. It was nice!

Creek walk, swimming hole FAIL
Then we stopped by the Moab Brewery for a drink (delish) and went home to cook (on our NEW campstove, thanks Wendie!) and sleep.

Today (Saturday) we went to Arches. Unbelievable stuff to see here. We did a longer hike out to Delicate Arch, which was spectacular, and then did some shorter hikes (and climbs) around the Frames, Double Arch, Balanced Rock and a few other cool sights. Definitely our most scenic day on the road so far.

Delicate Arch- me doing Standing Bow Pulling pose underneath

Turret Arch

Me climbing up Turret Arch- props to Kelsey Shannahan, photographer

Frame Arch. Gorgeous day behind.

Balanced Rock
 We finished off our day some shopping in Moab, some more local beer, and now we're back at our little tent. Hiking all day in the desert, it turns out, is pretty exhausting. So, we're enjoying some early bedtimes...but I have to say,  so far we've managed to cook all our meals at our campground, enjoy plenty of beverages, make friends with our neighbors, and even make progress in our books. Life is pretty good at the campground.

We leave in the morning for 3 days at the Grand Canyon to conclude our adventure :( I will make sure to update at least once more!

Also... I'm going to the Gorge.
Lots of love
xo
Cory

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Colorado, in pictures

Hi friends,

Hope all is well with you! I'm a little worried about my friends on the East Coast, as Irene approaches. Everyone please stay as safe, we're thinking about you. We are in Utah now, after spending Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday in beautiful Colorado. I think pictures are the best way to share our experience, but briefly, here's what we've been up to:

Jess welcomed us to Dillon CO on Monday night, and took the day off from work on Tuesday to show us around her amazing backyard. We drove north and checked out Rocky Mountain National Park, did some beautiful short hikes around the mountains and mountain lakes. We stopped on the way home in the town of Hot Sulphur Springs to have a long soak in the hot mineral water before heading back to Jess' house to cook, and shower, and do laundry, and get ready for a week on the road.

We left Dillon early Wednesday morning to drive south on Rt 24 toward Great Sand Dunes National Park. We were only briefly held up, on account of running literally STRAIGHT into the USA Pro Bicycle Race, taking place in Colorado this week. We went as far as we could go on 24, but the field was coming toward us and eventually we were told to pull over and wait until the race went by. So we did, and what a happy accident it was- the star bikers blew through pretty quickly but it was a fun experience nonetheless.

The Great Sand Dunes are located in the San Luis Valley, a high and huge desert-like valley in the southern Rockies. It is one of the most stark and beautiful places I've ever seen- absolutely worth a visit. Unfortunately, when we finally got close, so did the weather- in the form of violent thunderstorms moving through the area. So we checked into a sweet little campground nearby, set up our *new* tent (in very high winds, no problem, we handled it), made dinner, and waited it out. Thankfully, near sunset it looked like there was a clearing which meant an opportunity to go into the park and walk around, so we jumped. It was dry but still cloudy as we headed in, but we maintained hope that we could climb all the way to the summit. We got pretty high, and saw a beautiful sunset, but it started looking ominous again after the sun went down. So, sadly, we didn't make it but halfway to the top of the 800-foot dunes (The highest in the US). Apparently, the top is prime ground for getting struck by lightening, and it was getting really dark, so yeah we chickened out. Still, the scenery was breathtaking, and we stayed as long as we safely could, playing around in the sand. I'll never forget it. The most amazing thing to me was that it was literally DEAD silent there. We sat down at the edge of a mountain of sand, and couldn't hear anything but our hearts pounding in our ears from the climb. No wind, no water, no sound at all. I can't remember ever hearing so much nothing before.


Today, we woke up and and once again headed west, toward Utah. We stopped at some more very beautiful hot springs in the morning, located on a land trust nestled into the Sangre de Christo mountains at the edge of the San Luis Valley. From there, it was about 6 hours of driving to Moab, UT. For anyone interested, we took the scenic, winding Rt 114 through Gunnison National Forest (gorgeous) to Rt 50, which connects to Rt 70 in Grand Junction, CO, which is a short distance from the Utah boarder. Then we cut south to Moab along Rt 191.

And here we are, in the most scenic campground you could possibly imagine. We are staying for the next 3 nights at a BEAUTIFUL campground tucked off the access road between Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. We'll spend a few days exploring the desert before heading to the Grand Canyon.

Loving and missing my friends and family
Xoxo
C


Headed into the Rockies! And glad for it.

First things first: time to buy a new tent
Dillon, CO

Grand Lake White Cap Wheat, local and yummy






Grand Lake, southern entryway to Rocky Mtn Natl Park
Hiking near a waterfall in RMNP



USA Pro Cycling Challenge, Buena Vista, CO. They entire field went by in about 10 seconds



The Sangre de Christo Mountain range, eastern boarder of the San Luis Valley
Driving into the San Luis Valley, in crazy weather



The sun made a brief appearance, so we finally made it into the Sand Dunes park and started climbing




Sunset from halfway up the dunes


View of the Sangre de Christo range from the dunes at sunset
2 hikers coming down from near the top at dusk- storm clouds brewing above

Just after sunset
2 different hikers, descending a different peak, well after dark. Based on their laughing and rolling around, we think they were probably drunk.


Arriving in Moab- another patch of sunshine, and another rainbow
Sunset at our newest campground. Goodnight world.